Tuesday, January 02, 2007

Happy New Year Happy New Year

No that's not a mistake - that's what happened on our way back to the States.


The shuttle picked us up at 4:15 am
on New Years Day. We decided to not party that night, good move! Jenni had friends over but we retired early. Got some sleep and then started the trek. It was a pretty ride to the airport, lots of windy roads of course, but someone else driving! Arrived in Honolulu at 9 pm Dec 31, got our flight out at 11:40 pm and had New Year all over again. What a long drag though. 32 hours by the time we got home.

But our last few days in NZ were fun!
We went to Speedway twice!

The days between Christmas and New Year are difficult - too many people around, though we did go to the beach several times and what a pleasure that is.
Warm, white sands and although Richard and Shawn said, "It's so crowded," compared to SoCal beaches, there was no one there! The water was cold, though and being blamed on El Nino. Had the best ice-cream I have ever had - passionfruit or granadilla! mmmmm


We saw the sign for Speedway and decided it would be fun to take the family. And boy, was it ever! What an adrenalin rush! Those guys are nuts - sprint cars, saloons, stock cars and mini sprints with kids of 12 driving them! Glad I'm not their mother. It was so much fun, we decided to go again - and even Bryan and Zoze came. It was a real blast.

Anyway, coming in to Seattle was as expected - cold, grey, windy, wet, miserable.
Time to move somewhere sunny and warm.

I'll be back at my old blog http://grayhairedlady.blogspot.com/

c'ya

Friday, December 29, 2006


Christmas is over – and the new year is almost here.

And for me the countdown is on for the return to the nasty weather. It’s very depressing just thinking about it.

Christmas was fun, very low key, family time. Jenni of course went all out with stockings for everyone which was a surprise. I cooked a big breakfast and then we had a huge Christmas dinner with all the trimmings. We all completely gorged ourselves.

Boxing day was a day of rest, and more eating with all the yummy leftovers. But it also felt like our time was coming to an end. Went to Papamoa beach with the kids and everyone – lots more people out and about and the weather seems a bit more settled.

Yesterday we took a short trip to Katikati, which is known as Mural Town. It’s just 30-odd minutes from here. A great way to see history – and gather more tourists! I’ll do an International Living piece on that as I got some cool pix.

Big plans were made to go to Speedway, but at around 5 it was raining and there was no way I was going to sit out in the rain watching cars, but the boys took off – to return shortly as the racing was postponed. So if the weather holds, we’ll go tonight.

I’ve organized a shuttle to take us to Auckland on New Years day at 5:15 am. Now I have to sort through all the stuff I have accumulated and toss/recycle most of it. Then start packing my clothes etc. Bummer, I don’t want to go back to the crap there especially having to get the taxes organized and all the bookwork done that has been neglected for the past month.

The one good thing is I’ll see Hinckley and Buddy

Friday, December 22, 2006

I did what you’re supposed to do at a bach – nothing! So no blogs or pix while we were away.

But I’m baaack!

We got home a day early from our northland tour, both of us tired of driving, I think me especially as I did most of the driving and as I have mentioned before, the New Zealanders don’t believe in straight roads. So it’s hairpin bends, slowing down to almost a standstill, then accelerating up another grade, to be met by another humungous bend. So you have to be endlessly on guard, not just for the road but the drivers too!

We returned our little putt-putt car and came back to load up the Hi-Ace, Jenni’s people mover. She had to work so I drove the gang and what a swaying trip that was. Like driving an old VW bus (brings back memories.) Although it’s only about 80 miles, it takes almost three hours, winding our way north to Tairua. We had a couple of hairy moments when a heavy truck, tandem trailers, came around a corner way over on our side! Heart palpitations there. And then a car, loaded with a family, passed on a blind corner and almost ran us and the oncoming car off the road.

But we made it!


I was a bit disappointed as I thought the house was on the beach, but it was actually a level back from the estuary, and we had to walk out and around to a short road down to the water. Not bad really, but I had had dreams of walking out off the verandah onto the beach. Anyway, it turned out ok and we unloaded all the “stuff” into the house that sleeps 10. It was pretty basic but functional. Some of the ugliest wallpaper I have ever seen – really dating it to the early 60’s.


We had prepared a lot of the food beforehand to avoid having to deal with it there. The boys, Richard (18) and Shawn (12) spent most of their time fishing from the wharf with minimal success but a lot of enjoyment. We all read a lot, went for walks, ate, drank, did nothing. It seems to be a New Zealand thing, renting these houses. I think New Zealanders have second homes and then rent them out when they are not there. The websites are filled with available places, ranging from shacks on the beach to mansions in the mountains. All available by the day or week or longer I suppose. They pack the family up and go “on holiday.” There doesn’t seem to be a real purpose – other than to do nothing, which is a unique experience for me. I did take pix though, check the shutterfly link on the left.

We didn’t do nothing the whole time, I must admit. One day we took a picnic to Cooks Beach, a beautiful long white beach on Mercury Bay. On the way we stopped at Hot Water Beach, so named for the steaming water that erupts in the shoreline at low tide. People dig holes frantically, and plunk themselves down, only to jump up, shrieking, after scalding their nether ends. You can stand in the waterline, shuffle your feet down a few inches and feel the hot water rising.

On another day, Chris and I went to Coromandel Town on the western side of the peninsula. But to get there, we took the 309 road, not realizing that it is a gravel road. The reason for this was to see the kauri trees, back in the forest. What we didn’t bargain for was the torrential rain that turned the road into a muddy river. And true to Kiwi form, the road was a switchback nightmare. But I loved it! It was the most adventurous thing we have done. Real outback excitement! Chris did not join in with my enthusiasm.

Coromandel Town is a really pretty little place with lots of stores and restored storefronts. We decided to go on the wonderful narrow gauge railroad that a guy has built out in the bush. I will be writing this up as a postcard for International Living and when I do will post it here. There are pix.

Chris celebrated his 57th birthday much to his disgust. But he endured a birthday party, complete with chocolate cake and candles.

I have been checking the weather in the PNW – and am very glad to be here in the sunshine, but unfortunately that time is coming to an end, but the northerly storms apparently are continuing and will still be roaring when we get back.

Friday, December 15, 2006

Road trips are great but they can be rather tiring.

I wanted to take the west coast road back so we could see the kauri tree forests, but we both were getting punchy so decided to cut across the island and head home. It's amazing how much farmland there is. The little towns that dot the roads are minute and you wonder why they are really there.

It was fun at the rest stops - there are so many chickens there! And they aren't just ordinary chickens but bantams. I have no idea where they come from but they know what we're there for!

On the way home, I discovered (or thought I discovered) that I had lost my purse! Well! Total panic, call the states, cancel cards etc etc. Trying to find an internet connection to get online for phone numbers was not easy here. Not many places have wireless and they - the hotels - charge for it. And internet cafes are few and far between. I actually found one in a MacDonalds of all places. I refused to buy anything while I was there!

Anyway, we got home and unpacked and sure enough, my purse had fallen into the food box so all that panic and drama for nothing.

So here we are back at Jenni's and getting ready to leave this morning for the Coromandel where we have a bach, or holiday house for 5 days. It's apparently on the beach and there's lots to do there - or we can do nothing.

The weather is great. Even more wonderful when I read today that the Pacific Northwest is under siege with a huge wind storm. Huge winds of 75 mph and the Hood Canal Bridge closed and thousands of people without power. Boy, am I glad I'm here.

As far as you can see are islands and water. And it's much warmer here. In fact, it is quite hot! I love it!

We took a side trip to Opua and caught the little car ferry over to Russell, which was the original NZ capital. It's an historic place now, with beautiful old buildings and a very popular tourist spot. We thought we might spend the night there but discovered just how popular it is by the hefty hotel prices.
So we headed on back and wound our way all the way up to Kerikeri which I found rather disappointing. Dad lived there a long time ago and I had heard storied about it but I guess over the years, its popularity has grown and it suffers now from urban sprawl. So we ended up spending the night and leaving fairly early the next day, but not before a little shopping at the kauri wood store.
The wood that is used for the carvings and furniture is called swamp kauri and is mined from the peat bogs. some is reputed to be more than 45,000 years old. Bought a few little gifty things and admired a $28,000 dining set.

I think if I had to live in a city, it might be Auckland. What a magnificent place!

I am so impressed with how much the people use their harbour. Not just earning it the name "The city of sails," it should have added, the "city of the people on the water." Every where you look, people are out - on kayaks, sailboats, canoes, power boats, and even swimming, though it's a bit chilly for me! Big freighters move down the channel, dwarfing pleasure boats, and ferries run from island to island. It definitely has the Wow factor.

So Sunday was the day to play and we spent most of it near the water. Some of the time we were down at the yacht club watching the Aussie 18 skiffs prepare for racing and then went out onto a long wharf to watch the race. But even the shore around the yacht club was a hive of activity, with people working on their boats up on the hard, and the Maori outrigger club and their big canoes practising for the Nationals. Down the way a bit, a whole gaggle of youngsters were learning to kayak in bright orange and yellow plastic boats. Around the corner where the grass comes down to the water's edge, couples and families were having picnics. Just wonderful!

After our own picnic up at a huge park overlooking the harbor, we ended up at the Maritime Museum near down at the Aquaduct, where the America's Cup was based. Again, I was impressed at how the Kiwis are out and about, doing stuff and enjoying their city. And lots of young people which to me is so important and something I really miss in Washington.

Next morning, Monday I had a meeting scheduled with Bayleys Real Estate for the article I am doing. They have very plush offices down in the Viaduct area, and are known as THE real estate company in New Zealand. The meeting got off to a bit of a rocky start. I was meeting John Bayley, chairman and CEO (might as well go for the top brass!) and his PR guy. Neither of them knew anything about the seminar in March. So I had to do a bit of quick education to let them know what it was and by the time we were done, the word was out and they found who was in charge of it! So met the young Michael Bayley and all was ok.

From Auckland we headed north, heading to the Bay of Islands, not too sure how far we would get. Within about 30km of Auckland we were back into rural territory, no more expressway, just the windy, narrow roads again. Got into Whangarei around four and settled in for the evening. I took a walk down the river a way and went into the waterfront area which is very pretty. Lots of boats moored along the river's edge and some boat yards, too.
It isn't a real touristy town, but the tourist area is nicely done, but the stuff in the stores definitely had jacked up, tourist prices.
Tomorrow, we head for Kerikeri in the Bay of Islands where Dad used to live.




Thoughts on New Zealand


New Zealand drivers are some of the worst I have ever encountered! Driving around here can be really hairy. The general speed limit seems to be 100 km but there is a sign that reads, "This is not a target." I think anything over that is what drivers aim for, regardless of road conditions. the typical country roads are windy, narrow and rolling, up and down, up and down. There are big signs indicating what the safe speed is for the curves, ranging from 35 (really sharap) to 85, just a bend. But drivers ignore these, not only flying at speeds that to me are plain stupid, but passing on blind corners, and tailgating like I've neer experienced. One "heavy" was on my tail on a steep incline, so close that if I had put on my brakes (which if I did in the rental car would have brought us to a stop) the truck driver wouldn't have been able to see the lights. It is very scary driving here. It's actually quite surprising how rude the drivers are too, as in person and out of their car armour, we have found the Kiwis to be very polite, friendly and helpful.


But other than scary drivers, the country seems to be very safe. We've seen a lot of signs though, that say "Lock it or lose it," so theft in some of the areas is a problem. Although we haven't seen too much graffiti, it is around but the city councils seem to be on top of it and keep it painted over. There apparently has been vandalism as well. A small train museum that we wanted to check out was closed, due to vandalism of the carriages. So all is not as perfect as one would expect.

Saturday, December 09, 2006

Our little rental car is a Nissan Pulsar - pretty small but lots of room in the back for our stuff and the chilly bin! Stopped at the market for stuff - the markets are really good, they have everything you need, and more! Back at Jenni's house, loaded up and took off, heading for Raglan, on the west coast. It is the home of the famous New Zealand left - for those of you who surf!

Most of the trip was through typical rural New Zealand - seems most of New Zealand is rural. Cambridge is a very pretty little town, everything is immaculate, houses painted, yards trimmed and tidy, no trash anywhere. On we went, northwest through Hamilton which is a much bigger town with quite a bit of industry, then on to Raglan. Up to this point I hadn't taken any pix of sheep, so here's the first one.

Raglan is not like most of New Zealand. It is just a laid-back beach town that isn't so "perfect" looking but if I were to live in this country, I think this is where I would be. It has small grocery store, a butcher, bakery, pharmacy, surf shops and real estate offices. By the time we got there, the ominous clouds were looming again but we headed out to Manu Beach to see the waves. Wow, I can imagine what it would be like on a good day, with the waves like corduroy almost to horizon. The storm hit while we were there and the heavens opened. Headed back to town and our motel.

A couple more storms rolled through in the night. It was raining so hard and blowing with such force that the rain was hitting the sides of the buildings with such force that it went straight up and then the wind took it sideways again. This must be what it looks like in a hurricane.

The next morning was clear and we went back out to the point. If this had been Newport Beach,
there would have been 100 surfers out - there were only four and one was a boogey board, and he doesn't count.

Back in the village, found a nice little jewellery store where the ladies make jewellery out of New Zealand jade, paua shells and pearls, so did a little shopping. Bakery for rolls, grocery store for odds and ends and then off towards Auckland. We needed a pit stop and pulled off at a petrol station and felt like the whole world was there. There was a school rowing contest going on in the adjacent river and there were kids and rowing shells everywhere. Camps on both sides of the river.

Navigated our way through Auckland suburbs that look gorgeous, down to the water. One thing I've noticed about the kiwis is that they get out and do stuff. There were hundreds of all sorts of boats out, people working on their boats, on the beaches and in the parks, where kids were playing ouch rugby and cricket. Groups of kids out learning to kayak and people just enjoying the weather. And lots of young people, so different from Washington.


At a boatyard, Chris found some guys sailing Aussie 18s, the dinghy that takes a gymnast and dinghy mechanic to sail - they go a million miles an hour. There are only four in NZ so when one was towed in with a broken mast, the competition was significantly reduced.

Finding a motel turned into a nightmare. Saturday evening at the start of the summer holidays. We crossed over the bridge to the northern suburbs thinking we would be more likely to find something. Every place we went, and there aren't a lot of motels out there, were full. Finally, we headed back towards the city and the North Shore. Again, everywhere we went the places were full. Finally, an innkeeper called around for us and found a place in Takapuna Beach. And we made out like bandits. It's not cheap, but it's perfect. Full kitchen, tv, everything we need so booked two nights. Even wireless internet, hence this blog.

Once we were settled, I went for a walk on the long beach. Again, people out running and walking,
sailboats out - and ominous clouds looming. Not wanting to repeat my former drenching, I spun it and walked fast back to the room at the Emerald Inn. Just in time - the heavens opened again and we had torrential rain again. With the vegetation around the room, it really felt tropical and it wasn't that cold.

This morning, Sunday, we are going to explore Auckland a bit and maybe go to a craft place out of town. Chris wants to go back to see the Aussie 18s again as they will be sailing at around noon.

Pix at shutterfly link on the left

Tuesday, December 05, 2006


Gisborne to Napier

It’s 215 km to Napier and we wondered if we would make it in one day, with the roads as windy as they are. But we got lucky and they weren’t too bad. We stopped on the Mahia Peninsula as there are supposed to be good waves, but today it was flat. We went for a walk at Black Beach and I picked up some pumice and some cool driftwood for Cody.

Then on through the bustling (yawn) town of Wairoa and did some more windy windy roads before getting into Napier.

This is a city that was devastated by earthquakes and fire and rebuilt as an Art Deco town in the 1930’s. So far it’s my favorite town. It has everything going for it. Big harbor, pretty waterfront, good restaurants, beautiful buildings and it seems to be thriving. It’s a growth area so the real estate prices have gone through the roof.

We decided that we had had enough roughing it so found a really cool place called Pebble Beach. Actually, we stopped on the main drag and checked the motel after being disappointed by the local Backpackers. But the rates were pretty high and we hummed and hahed and the proprietor said, “We have another property,” and sent us off to see his brother who ran ‘Accommodation” on the other side of the hill. It was gorgeous! Two en suite rooms, beautifully done, right across from the water and within 500 meters there are 12 restaurants and pubs! We settled right in!

Dinner that night was at the GinTrap and I had lamb – again! It is sooooo good! We sat out on the deck, and the light was wonderful as the sun went down over the Inner Harbor. Tipping is not the done thing in NZ, but our waitress got a good one this evening. She made the evening, with suggestions etc., so when Chris gave her a tip, she was just overjoyed and came over to thank us – something unheard of in the States.

Napier to Lake Taupo and home

I didn’t sleep properly again last night – and for me that is just the worst thing. I was so tired, if anyone looked at me sideways, I wanted to cry. So Zoze drove and we wound our way up and through vineyards and forests. I originally wanted to stop and do some wine tasting, but I was just too tired. If you are going to do NZ, you need to give yourself a lot of time in each place – there is just so much to do.

Taupo is VERY touristy, we were all punchy (it’s difficult sitting in a little car with your knees around your chin for a long time) so we got a bite to eat at a small café, and headed out, heading home.

With one small detour to Huka Falls. Amazing amounts of water being forced through a small channel produce huge amounts of power. And the color! A brilliant turquoise – the water is so clean and add the extra oxygen – you get this gorgeous color. And the roar! You can’t hear yourself talk! The whole setup is run by volunteers, too.

Home at last. And a good night’s sleep.

I needed a down day and this was the one! Did laundry, Chris went to play golf and later we borrowed the car and went down to Mt. Maunganui Beach with a stop at the local yacht club. We stopped for a drink, Chris had dinner, and the music they were playing was very cool – Putamayo Women of Africa.

The beach is very well used. It was just after 5 and people were streaming to the beach. We saw about 20 people with paddle skis heading out and some youngsters were setting up at least 15 volleyball nets. People were jogging and walking along the boardwalk. The only fat people we have seen are the Maori who are having a problem with diabetes as they change their diets to more fast food. Not good.

Today is Wednesday and Chris went fishing with Richard. Zoze and I went out to The Quarry. It’s a quarry that was worked from 1920 through the 70’s and then volunteers took over and have created this beautiful, natural botanical garden. There are masses of orchids, many already over for the season, but again, this place is run and maintained by volunteers. The one lady we saw said that yesterday there were 34 people out, the oldest one being 89. The views from the hillsides are spectacular, all the way across Tauranga harbor to Mt Maunganui.

We kept on the main highway after that and went to a pretty little seaside town called Omokoroa Beach. Very Expensive!

Back home, I have made spaghetti for dinner, enough to feed the masses and freeze some to take to the bach on 16th.

We have rented a car starting Friday and will head out for 8 days, to Raglan, Auckland and then up to Bay of Islands.

I am amazed at how expensive this country is. I knew that it wasn’t cheap from my research before coming over, but it’s at least the same as the States and often even more expensive. There is a lot of government subsidy for the poorer people, but so far I haven’t figured out how people are making it here.

Sunday, December 03, 2006

This weather sure is fickle! One minute the sun is blazing and the next it’s storming, with rain coming sideways!

I didn’t sleep well last night – the locals were having a party in the street below our room, and they had a wonderful, loud time. But I suppose in a town this size, there isn’t a lot to do. Had breakfast in Maria’s café in the Inn, and met a young man from Vancouver who lives here now. He’s been working on a sheep station for a few years, but is permanently settled – his girlfriend is the cook!

At the south end of the bay is a long, long wharf built in the 1920’s and is the longest in the southern hemisphere. It’s in disrepair now, and the town is looking for funds to restore it. We decided to take a walk out to the end, Zoze and Bryan leading the way. The wind was howling (should have taken Graeme’s advice and carried a rock with me) but sunny. About a quarter of the way out, I looked over my shoulder and saw this enormous black cloud racing towards us, so Chris and I turned tailed and raced back to the shelter of the tall pines. Totally oblivious, Zoze and Bryan kept walking, and walking until …wham! It got them and they tried to make their way back. Bryan was very chivalrous trying to block the blast from Zoze but it didn’t help and they got totally soaked! And it was freezing, too. Cranked up the heat and steamed the car up while they dried off.

Our target for the day is Gisborne and apparently it’s not that far. But New Zealand doesn’t believe in straight roads and what we think will take an hour takes double that time. The area is supposed to be a surfing area, and Chris has been anxiously looking for spots but it has been so churned up that the surf looks like hell. But we pulled over at a spot for a pits stop and went for a walk along the beach. This time it was Chris and I who got caught in it – and this time it was hailing! And my legs gave out after trying to run through the ankle deep, soft sand. But I ended up walking back and got totally soaked. Fortunately the public toilets were right there and I got into dry clothes! Jeez, weird weather.

We found a cool campground with rooms available – they were very nice, just redone but the beds were like rock! The town itself is very pretty with a lot of old buildings built in the late 1800’s early 1900’s. The main street is lined with little stores, in fact, there are not a lot of big Box stores anywhere, the little ones can survive. I have only seen ONE Starbucks! But have seen a Wendy’s, MacDonalds and Burger King too. Gisborne is the first town to see the sun each day, and was where Captain Cook made landfall in New Zealand. The harbor is quite small, with a few pleasure boats and quite a lot of fishing boats. There are also a couple of really good murals. Chris and I went to the harbor for the afternoon and had a snack at the local waterfront tavern, again drinking lovely NZ wine.

We all know Kiwis talk funny – and there is some funny terminology. When we first arrived I looked at the coffee menu at the airport that said “flat white.” Well, what could that be? It’s a latte without the foam! And then there are B.L.A.Ts – we have BLT’s and they have BLAT’s – bacon, lettuce, avocado and tomatoes. I’m learning!

Pix at the shutterfly link on the left.