Saturday, December 09, 2006

Our little rental car is a Nissan Pulsar - pretty small but lots of room in the back for our stuff and the chilly bin! Stopped at the market for stuff - the markets are really good, they have everything you need, and more! Back at Jenni's house, loaded up and took off, heading for Raglan, on the west coast. It is the home of the famous New Zealand left - for those of you who surf!

Most of the trip was through typical rural New Zealand - seems most of New Zealand is rural. Cambridge is a very pretty little town, everything is immaculate, houses painted, yards trimmed and tidy, no trash anywhere. On we went, northwest through Hamilton which is a much bigger town with quite a bit of industry, then on to Raglan. Up to this point I hadn't taken any pix of sheep, so here's the first one.

Raglan is not like most of New Zealand. It is just a laid-back beach town that isn't so "perfect" looking but if I were to live in this country, I think this is where I would be. It has small grocery store, a butcher, bakery, pharmacy, surf shops and real estate offices. By the time we got there, the ominous clouds were looming again but we headed out to Manu Beach to see the waves. Wow, I can imagine what it would be like on a good day, with the waves like corduroy almost to horizon. The storm hit while we were there and the heavens opened. Headed back to town and our motel.

A couple more storms rolled through in the night. It was raining so hard and blowing with such force that the rain was hitting the sides of the buildings with such force that it went straight up and then the wind took it sideways again. This must be what it looks like in a hurricane.

The next morning was clear and we went back out to the point. If this had been Newport Beach,
there would have been 100 surfers out - there were only four and one was a boogey board, and he doesn't count.

Back in the village, found a nice little jewellery store where the ladies make jewellery out of New Zealand jade, paua shells and pearls, so did a little shopping. Bakery for rolls, grocery store for odds and ends and then off towards Auckland. We needed a pit stop and pulled off at a petrol station and felt like the whole world was there. There was a school rowing contest going on in the adjacent river and there were kids and rowing shells everywhere. Camps on both sides of the river.

Navigated our way through Auckland suburbs that look gorgeous, down to the water. One thing I've noticed about the kiwis is that they get out and do stuff. There were hundreds of all sorts of boats out, people working on their boats, on the beaches and in the parks, where kids were playing ouch rugby and cricket. Groups of kids out learning to kayak and people just enjoying the weather. And lots of young people, so different from Washington.


At a boatyard, Chris found some guys sailing Aussie 18s, the dinghy that takes a gymnast and dinghy mechanic to sail - they go a million miles an hour. There are only four in NZ so when one was towed in with a broken mast, the competition was significantly reduced.

Finding a motel turned into a nightmare. Saturday evening at the start of the summer holidays. We crossed over the bridge to the northern suburbs thinking we would be more likely to find something. Every place we went, and there aren't a lot of motels out there, were full. Finally, we headed back towards the city and the North Shore. Again, everywhere we went the places were full. Finally, an innkeeper called around for us and found a place in Takapuna Beach. And we made out like bandits. It's not cheap, but it's perfect. Full kitchen, tv, everything we need so booked two nights. Even wireless internet, hence this blog.

Once we were settled, I went for a walk on the long beach. Again, people out running and walking,
sailboats out - and ominous clouds looming. Not wanting to repeat my former drenching, I spun it and walked fast back to the room at the Emerald Inn. Just in time - the heavens opened again and we had torrential rain again. With the vegetation around the room, it really felt tropical and it wasn't that cold.

This morning, Sunday, we are going to explore Auckland a bit and maybe go to a craft place out of town. Chris wants to go back to see the Aussie 18s again as they will be sailing at around noon.

Pix at shutterfly link on the left

Tuesday, December 05, 2006


Gisborne to Napier

It’s 215 km to Napier and we wondered if we would make it in one day, with the roads as windy as they are. But we got lucky and they weren’t too bad. We stopped on the Mahia Peninsula as there are supposed to be good waves, but today it was flat. We went for a walk at Black Beach and I picked up some pumice and some cool driftwood for Cody.

Then on through the bustling (yawn) town of Wairoa and did some more windy windy roads before getting into Napier.

This is a city that was devastated by earthquakes and fire and rebuilt as an Art Deco town in the 1930’s. So far it’s my favorite town. It has everything going for it. Big harbor, pretty waterfront, good restaurants, beautiful buildings and it seems to be thriving. It’s a growth area so the real estate prices have gone through the roof.

We decided that we had had enough roughing it so found a really cool place called Pebble Beach. Actually, we stopped on the main drag and checked the motel after being disappointed by the local Backpackers. But the rates were pretty high and we hummed and hahed and the proprietor said, “We have another property,” and sent us off to see his brother who ran ‘Accommodation” on the other side of the hill. It was gorgeous! Two en suite rooms, beautifully done, right across from the water and within 500 meters there are 12 restaurants and pubs! We settled right in!

Dinner that night was at the GinTrap and I had lamb – again! It is sooooo good! We sat out on the deck, and the light was wonderful as the sun went down over the Inner Harbor. Tipping is not the done thing in NZ, but our waitress got a good one this evening. She made the evening, with suggestions etc., so when Chris gave her a tip, she was just overjoyed and came over to thank us – something unheard of in the States.

Napier to Lake Taupo and home

I didn’t sleep properly again last night – and for me that is just the worst thing. I was so tired, if anyone looked at me sideways, I wanted to cry. So Zoze drove and we wound our way up and through vineyards and forests. I originally wanted to stop and do some wine tasting, but I was just too tired. If you are going to do NZ, you need to give yourself a lot of time in each place – there is just so much to do.

Taupo is VERY touristy, we were all punchy (it’s difficult sitting in a little car with your knees around your chin for a long time) so we got a bite to eat at a small café, and headed out, heading home.

With one small detour to Huka Falls. Amazing amounts of water being forced through a small channel produce huge amounts of power. And the color! A brilliant turquoise – the water is so clean and add the extra oxygen – you get this gorgeous color. And the roar! You can’t hear yourself talk! The whole setup is run by volunteers, too.

Home at last. And a good night’s sleep.

I needed a down day and this was the one! Did laundry, Chris went to play golf and later we borrowed the car and went down to Mt. Maunganui Beach with a stop at the local yacht club. We stopped for a drink, Chris had dinner, and the music they were playing was very cool – Putamayo Women of Africa.

The beach is very well used. It was just after 5 and people were streaming to the beach. We saw about 20 people with paddle skis heading out and some youngsters were setting up at least 15 volleyball nets. People were jogging and walking along the boardwalk. The only fat people we have seen are the Maori who are having a problem with diabetes as they change their diets to more fast food. Not good.

Today is Wednesday and Chris went fishing with Richard. Zoze and I went out to The Quarry. It’s a quarry that was worked from 1920 through the 70’s and then volunteers took over and have created this beautiful, natural botanical garden. There are masses of orchids, many already over for the season, but again, this place is run and maintained by volunteers. The one lady we saw said that yesterday there were 34 people out, the oldest one being 89. The views from the hillsides are spectacular, all the way across Tauranga harbor to Mt Maunganui.

We kept on the main highway after that and went to a pretty little seaside town called Omokoroa Beach. Very Expensive!

Back home, I have made spaghetti for dinner, enough to feed the masses and freeze some to take to the bach on 16th.

We have rented a car starting Friday and will head out for 8 days, to Raglan, Auckland and then up to Bay of Islands.

I am amazed at how expensive this country is. I knew that it wasn’t cheap from my research before coming over, but it’s at least the same as the States and often even more expensive. There is a lot of government subsidy for the poorer people, but so far I haven’t figured out how people are making it here.

Sunday, December 03, 2006

This weather sure is fickle! One minute the sun is blazing and the next it’s storming, with rain coming sideways!

I didn’t sleep well last night – the locals were having a party in the street below our room, and they had a wonderful, loud time. But I suppose in a town this size, there isn’t a lot to do. Had breakfast in Maria’s café in the Inn, and met a young man from Vancouver who lives here now. He’s been working on a sheep station for a few years, but is permanently settled – his girlfriend is the cook!

At the south end of the bay is a long, long wharf built in the 1920’s and is the longest in the southern hemisphere. It’s in disrepair now, and the town is looking for funds to restore it. We decided to take a walk out to the end, Zoze and Bryan leading the way. The wind was howling (should have taken Graeme’s advice and carried a rock with me) but sunny. About a quarter of the way out, I looked over my shoulder and saw this enormous black cloud racing towards us, so Chris and I turned tailed and raced back to the shelter of the tall pines. Totally oblivious, Zoze and Bryan kept walking, and walking until …wham! It got them and they tried to make their way back. Bryan was very chivalrous trying to block the blast from Zoze but it didn’t help and they got totally soaked! And it was freezing, too. Cranked up the heat and steamed the car up while they dried off.

Our target for the day is Gisborne and apparently it’s not that far. But New Zealand doesn’t believe in straight roads and what we think will take an hour takes double that time. The area is supposed to be a surfing area, and Chris has been anxiously looking for spots but it has been so churned up that the surf looks like hell. But we pulled over at a spot for a pits stop and went for a walk along the beach. This time it was Chris and I who got caught in it – and this time it was hailing! And my legs gave out after trying to run through the ankle deep, soft sand. But I ended up walking back and got totally soaked. Fortunately the public toilets were right there and I got into dry clothes! Jeez, weird weather.

We found a cool campground with rooms available – they were very nice, just redone but the beds were like rock! The town itself is very pretty with a lot of old buildings built in the late 1800’s early 1900’s. The main street is lined with little stores, in fact, there are not a lot of big Box stores anywhere, the little ones can survive. I have only seen ONE Starbucks! But have seen a Wendy’s, MacDonalds and Burger King too. Gisborne is the first town to see the sun each day, and was where Captain Cook made landfall in New Zealand. The harbor is quite small, with a few pleasure boats and quite a lot of fishing boats. There are also a couple of really good murals. Chris and I went to the harbor for the afternoon and had a snack at the local waterfront tavern, again drinking lovely NZ wine.

We all know Kiwis talk funny – and there is some funny terminology. When we first arrived I looked at the coffee menu at the airport that said “flat white.” Well, what could that be? It’s a latte without the foam! And then there are B.L.A.Ts – we have BLT’s and they have BLAT’s – bacon, lettuce, avocado and tomatoes. I’m learning!

Pix at the shutterfly link on the left.