Friday, December 29, 2006


Christmas is over – and the new year is almost here.

And for me the countdown is on for the return to the nasty weather. It’s very depressing just thinking about it.

Christmas was fun, very low key, family time. Jenni of course went all out with stockings for everyone which was a surprise. I cooked a big breakfast and then we had a huge Christmas dinner with all the trimmings. We all completely gorged ourselves.

Boxing day was a day of rest, and more eating with all the yummy leftovers. But it also felt like our time was coming to an end. Went to Papamoa beach with the kids and everyone – lots more people out and about and the weather seems a bit more settled.

Yesterday we took a short trip to Katikati, which is known as Mural Town. It’s just 30-odd minutes from here. A great way to see history – and gather more tourists! I’ll do an International Living piece on that as I got some cool pix.

Big plans were made to go to Speedway, but at around 5 it was raining and there was no way I was going to sit out in the rain watching cars, but the boys took off – to return shortly as the racing was postponed. So if the weather holds, we’ll go tonight.

I’ve organized a shuttle to take us to Auckland on New Years day at 5:15 am. Now I have to sort through all the stuff I have accumulated and toss/recycle most of it. Then start packing my clothes etc. Bummer, I don’t want to go back to the crap there especially having to get the taxes organized and all the bookwork done that has been neglected for the past month.

The one good thing is I’ll see Hinckley and Buddy

Friday, December 22, 2006

I did what you’re supposed to do at a bach – nothing! So no blogs or pix while we were away.

But I’m baaack!

We got home a day early from our northland tour, both of us tired of driving, I think me especially as I did most of the driving and as I have mentioned before, the New Zealanders don’t believe in straight roads. So it’s hairpin bends, slowing down to almost a standstill, then accelerating up another grade, to be met by another humungous bend. So you have to be endlessly on guard, not just for the road but the drivers too!

We returned our little putt-putt car and came back to load up the Hi-Ace, Jenni’s people mover. She had to work so I drove the gang and what a swaying trip that was. Like driving an old VW bus (brings back memories.) Although it’s only about 80 miles, it takes almost three hours, winding our way north to Tairua. We had a couple of hairy moments when a heavy truck, tandem trailers, came around a corner way over on our side! Heart palpitations there. And then a car, loaded with a family, passed on a blind corner and almost ran us and the oncoming car off the road.

But we made it!


I was a bit disappointed as I thought the house was on the beach, but it was actually a level back from the estuary, and we had to walk out and around to a short road down to the water. Not bad really, but I had had dreams of walking out off the verandah onto the beach. Anyway, it turned out ok and we unloaded all the “stuff” into the house that sleeps 10. It was pretty basic but functional. Some of the ugliest wallpaper I have ever seen – really dating it to the early 60’s.


We had prepared a lot of the food beforehand to avoid having to deal with it there. The boys, Richard (18) and Shawn (12) spent most of their time fishing from the wharf with minimal success but a lot of enjoyment. We all read a lot, went for walks, ate, drank, did nothing. It seems to be a New Zealand thing, renting these houses. I think New Zealanders have second homes and then rent them out when they are not there. The websites are filled with available places, ranging from shacks on the beach to mansions in the mountains. All available by the day or week or longer I suppose. They pack the family up and go “on holiday.” There doesn’t seem to be a real purpose – other than to do nothing, which is a unique experience for me. I did take pix though, check the shutterfly link on the left.

We didn’t do nothing the whole time, I must admit. One day we took a picnic to Cooks Beach, a beautiful long white beach on Mercury Bay. On the way we stopped at Hot Water Beach, so named for the steaming water that erupts in the shoreline at low tide. People dig holes frantically, and plunk themselves down, only to jump up, shrieking, after scalding their nether ends. You can stand in the waterline, shuffle your feet down a few inches and feel the hot water rising.

On another day, Chris and I went to Coromandel Town on the western side of the peninsula. But to get there, we took the 309 road, not realizing that it is a gravel road. The reason for this was to see the kauri trees, back in the forest. What we didn’t bargain for was the torrential rain that turned the road into a muddy river. And true to Kiwi form, the road was a switchback nightmare. But I loved it! It was the most adventurous thing we have done. Real outback excitement! Chris did not join in with my enthusiasm.

Coromandel Town is a really pretty little place with lots of stores and restored storefronts. We decided to go on the wonderful narrow gauge railroad that a guy has built out in the bush. I will be writing this up as a postcard for International Living and when I do will post it here. There are pix.

Chris celebrated his 57th birthday much to his disgust. But he endured a birthday party, complete with chocolate cake and candles.

I have been checking the weather in the PNW – and am very glad to be here in the sunshine, but unfortunately that time is coming to an end, but the northerly storms apparently are continuing and will still be roaring when we get back.

Friday, December 15, 2006

Road trips are great but they can be rather tiring.

I wanted to take the west coast road back so we could see the kauri tree forests, but we both were getting punchy so decided to cut across the island and head home. It's amazing how much farmland there is. The little towns that dot the roads are minute and you wonder why they are really there.

It was fun at the rest stops - there are so many chickens there! And they aren't just ordinary chickens but bantams. I have no idea where they come from but they know what we're there for!

On the way home, I discovered (or thought I discovered) that I had lost my purse! Well! Total panic, call the states, cancel cards etc etc. Trying to find an internet connection to get online for phone numbers was not easy here. Not many places have wireless and they - the hotels - charge for it. And internet cafes are few and far between. I actually found one in a MacDonalds of all places. I refused to buy anything while I was there!

Anyway, we got home and unpacked and sure enough, my purse had fallen into the food box so all that panic and drama for nothing.

So here we are back at Jenni's and getting ready to leave this morning for the Coromandel where we have a bach, or holiday house for 5 days. It's apparently on the beach and there's lots to do there - or we can do nothing.

The weather is great. Even more wonderful when I read today that the Pacific Northwest is under siege with a huge wind storm. Huge winds of 75 mph and the Hood Canal Bridge closed and thousands of people without power. Boy, am I glad I'm here.

As far as you can see are islands and water. And it's much warmer here. In fact, it is quite hot! I love it!

We took a side trip to Opua and caught the little car ferry over to Russell, which was the original NZ capital. It's an historic place now, with beautiful old buildings and a very popular tourist spot. We thought we might spend the night there but discovered just how popular it is by the hefty hotel prices.
So we headed on back and wound our way all the way up to Kerikeri which I found rather disappointing. Dad lived there a long time ago and I had heard storied about it but I guess over the years, its popularity has grown and it suffers now from urban sprawl. So we ended up spending the night and leaving fairly early the next day, but not before a little shopping at the kauri wood store.
The wood that is used for the carvings and furniture is called swamp kauri and is mined from the peat bogs. some is reputed to be more than 45,000 years old. Bought a few little gifty things and admired a $28,000 dining set.

I think if I had to live in a city, it might be Auckland. What a magnificent place!

I am so impressed with how much the people use their harbour. Not just earning it the name "The city of sails," it should have added, the "city of the people on the water." Every where you look, people are out - on kayaks, sailboats, canoes, power boats, and even swimming, though it's a bit chilly for me! Big freighters move down the channel, dwarfing pleasure boats, and ferries run from island to island. It definitely has the Wow factor.

So Sunday was the day to play and we spent most of it near the water. Some of the time we were down at the yacht club watching the Aussie 18 skiffs prepare for racing and then went out onto a long wharf to watch the race. But even the shore around the yacht club was a hive of activity, with people working on their boats up on the hard, and the Maori outrigger club and their big canoes practising for the Nationals. Down the way a bit, a whole gaggle of youngsters were learning to kayak in bright orange and yellow plastic boats. Around the corner where the grass comes down to the water's edge, couples and families were having picnics. Just wonderful!

After our own picnic up at a huge park overlooking the harbor, we ended up at the Maritime Museum near down at the Aquaduct, where the America's Cup was based. Again, I was impressed at how the Kiwis are out and about, doing stuff and enjoying their city. And lots of young people which to me is so important and something I really miss in Washington.

Next morning, Monday I had a meeting scheduled with Bayleys Real Estate for the article I am doing. They have very plush offices down in the Viaduct area, and are known as THE real estate company in New Zealand. The meeting got off to a bit of a rocky start. I was meeting John Bayley, chairman and CEO (might as well go for the top brass!) and his PR guy. Neither of them knew anything about the seminar in March. So I had to do a bit of quick education to let them know what it was and by the time we were done, the word was out and they found who was in charge of it! So met the young Michael Bayley and all was ok.

From Auckland we headed north, heading to the Bay of Islands, not too sure how far we would get. Within about 30km of Auckland we were back into rural territory, no more expressway, just the windy, narrow roads again. Got into Whangarei around four and settled in for the evening. I took a walk down the river a way and went into the waterfront area which is very pretty. Lots of boats moored along the river's edge and some boat yards, too.
It isn't a real touristy town, but the tourist area is nicely done, but the stuff in the stores definitely had jacked up, tourist prices.
Tomorrow, we head for Kerikeri in the Bay of Islands where Dad used to live.




Thoughts on New Zealand


New Zealand drivers are some of the worst I have ever encountered! Driving around here can be really hairy. The general speed limit seems to be 100 km but there is a sign that reads, "This is not a target." I think anything over that is what drivers aim for, regardless of road conditions. the typical country roads are windy, narrow and rolling, up and down, up and down. There are big signs indicating what the safe speed is for the curves, ranging from 35 (really sharap) to 85, just a bend. But drivers ignore these, not only flying at speeds that to me are plain stupid, but passing on blind corners, and tailgating like I've neer experienced. One "heavy" was on my tail on a steep incline, so close that if I had put on my brakes (which if I did in the rental car would have brought us to a stop) the truck driver wouldn't have been able to see the lights. It is very scary driving here. It's actually quite surprising how rude the drivers are too, as in person and out of their car armour, we have found the Kiwis to be very polite, friendly and helpful.


But other than scary drivers, the country seems to be very safe. We've seen a lot of signs though, that say "Lock it or lose it," so theft in some of the areas is a problem. Although we haven't seen too much graffiti, it is around but the city councils seem to be on top of it and keep it painted over. There apparently has been vandalism as well. A small train museum that we wanted to check out was closed, due to vandalism of the carriages. So all is not as perfect as one would expect.

Saturday, December 09, 2006

Our little rental car is a Nissan Pulsar - pretty small but lots of room in the back for our stuff and the chilly bin! Stopped at the market for stuff - the markets are really good, they have everything you need, and more! Back at Jenni's house, loaded up and took off, heading for Raglan, on the west coast. It is the home of the famous New Zealand left - for those of you who surf!

Most of the trip was through typical rural New Zealand - seems most of New Zealand is rural. Cambridge is a very pretty little town, everything is immaculate, houses painted, yards trimmed and tidy, no trash anywhere. On we went, northwest through Hamilton which is a much bigger town with quite a bit of industry, then on to Raglan. Up to this point I hadn't taken any pix of sheep, so here's the first one.

Raglan is not like most of New Zealand. It is just a laid-back beach town that isn't so "perfect" looking but if I were to live in this country, I think this is where I would be. It has small grocery store, a butcher, bakery, pharmacy, surf shops and real estate offices. By the time we got there, the ominous clouds were looming again but we headed out to Manu Beach to see the waves. Wow, I can imagine what it would be like on a good day, with the waves like corduroy almost to horizon. The storm hit while we were there and the heavens opened. Headed back to town and our motel.

A couple more storms rolled through in the night. It was raining so hard and blowing with such force that the rain was hitting the sides of the buildings with such force that it went straight up and then the wind took it sideways again. This must be what it looks like in a hurricane.

The next morning was clear and we went back out to the point. If this had been Newport Beach,
there would have been 100 surfers out - there were only four and one was a boogey board, and he doesn't count.

Back in the village, found a nice little jewellery store where the ladies make jewellery out of New Zealand jade, paua shells and pearls, so did a little shopping. Bakery for rolls, grocery store for odds and ends and then off towards Auckland. We needed a pit stop and pulled off at a petrol station and felt like the whole world was there. There was a school rowing contest going on in the adjacent river and there were kids and rowing shells everywhere. Camps on both sides of the river.

Navigated our way through Auckland suburbs that look gorgeous, down to the water. One thing I've noticed about the kiwis is that they get out and do stuff. There were hundreds of all sorts of boats out, people working on their boats, on the beaches and in the parks, where kids were playing ouch rugby and cricket. Groups of kids out learning to kayak and people just enjoying the weather. And lots of young people, so different from Washington.


At a boatyard, Chris found some guys sailing Aussie 18s, the dinghy that takes a gymnast and dinghy mechanic to sail - they go a million miles an hour. There are only four in NZ so when one was towed in with a broken mast, the competition was significantly reduced.

Finding a motel turned into a nightmare. Saturday evening at the start of the summer holidays. We crossed over the bridge to the northern suburbs thinking we would be more likely to find something. Every place we went, and there aren't a lot of motels out there, were full. Finally, we headed back towards the city and the North Shore. Again, everywhere we went the places were full. Finally, an innkeeper called around for us and found a place in Takapuna Beach. And we made out like bandits. It's not cheap, but it's perfect. Full kitchen, tv, everything we need so booked two nights. Even wireless internet, hence this blog.

Once we were settled, I went for a walk on the long beach. Again, people out running and walking,
sailboats out - and ominous clouds looming. Not wanting to repeat my former drenching, I spun it and walked fast back to the room at the Emerald Inn. Just in time - the heavens opened again and we had torrential rain again. With the vegetation around the room, it really felt tropical and it wasn't that cold.

This morning, Sunday, we are going to explore Auckland a bit and maybe go to a craft place out of town. Chris wants to go back to see the Aussie 18s again as they will be sailing at around noon.

Pix at shutterfly link on the left

Tuesday, December 05, 2006


Gisborne to Napier

It’s 215 km to Napier and we wondered if we would make it in one day, with the roads as windy as they are. But we got lucky and they weren’t too bad. We stopped on the Mahia Peninsula as there are supposed to be good waves, but today it was flat. We went for a walk at Black Beach and I picked up some pumice and some cool driftwood for Cody.

Then on through the bustling (yawn) town of Wairoa and did some more windy windy roads before getting into Napier.

This is a city that was devastated by earthquakes and fire and rebuilt as an Art Deco town in the 1930’s. So far it’s my favorite town. It has everything going for it. Big harbor, pretty waterfront, good restaurants, beautiful buildings and it seems to be thriving. It’s a growth area so the real estate prices have gone through the roof.

We decided that we had had enough roughing it so found a really cool place called Pebble Beach. Actually, we stopped on the main drag and checked the motel after being disappointed by the local Backpackers. But the rates were pretty high and we hummed and hahed and the proprietor said, “We have another property,” and sent us off to see his brother who ran ‘Accommodation” on the other side of the hill. It was gorgeous! Two en suite rooms, beautifully done, right across from the water and within 500 meters there are 12 restaurants and pubs! We settled right in!

Dinner that night was at the GinTrap and I had lamb – again! It is sooooo good! We sat out on the deck, and the light was wonderful as the sun went down over the Inner Harbor. Tipping is not the done thing in NZ, but our waitress got a good one this evening. She made the evening, with suggestions etc., so when Chris gave her a tip, she was just overjoyed and came over to thank us – something unheard of in the States.

Napier to Lake Taupo and home

I didn’t sleep properly again last night – and for me that is just the worst thing. I was so tired, if anyone looked at me sideways, I wanted to cry. So Zoze drove and we wound our way up and through vineyards and forests. I originally wanted to stop and do some wine tasting, but I was just too tired. If you are going to do NZ, you need to give yourself a lot of time in each place – there is just so much to do.

Taupo is VERY touristy, we were all punchy (it’s difficult sitting in a little car with your knees around your chin for a long time) so we got a bite to eat at a small café, and headed out, heading home.

With one small detour to Huka Falls. Amazing amounts of water being forced through a small channel produce huge amounts of power. And the color! A brilliant turquoise – the water is so clean and add the extra oxygen – you get this gorgeous color. And the roar! You can’t hear yourself talk! The whole setup is run by volunteers, too.

Home at last. And a good night’s sleep.

I needed a down day and this was the one! Did laundry, Chris went to play golf and later we borrowed the car and went down to Mt. Maunganui Beach with a stop at the local yacht club. We stopped for a drink, Chris had dinner, and the music they were playing was very cool – Putamayo Women of Africa.

The beach is very well used. It was just after 5 and people were streaming to the beach. We saw about 20 people with paddle skis heading out and some youngsters were setting up at least 15 volleyball nets. People were jogging and walking along the boardwalk. The only fat people we have seen are the Maori who are having a problem with diabetes as they change their diets to more fast food. Not good.

Today is Wednesday and Chris went fishing with Richard. Zoze and I went out to The Quarry. It’s a quarry that was worked from 1920 through the 70’s and then volunteers took over and have created this beautiful, natural botanical garden. There are masses of orchids, many already over for the season, but again, this place is run and maintained by volunteers. The one lady we saw said that yesterday there were 34 people out, the oldest one being 89. The views from the hillsides are spectacular, all the way across Tauranga harbor to Mt Maunganui.

We kept on the main highway after that and went to a pretty little seaside town called Omokoroa Beach. Very Expensive!

Back home, I have made spaghetti for dinner, enough to feed the masses and freeze some to take to the bach on 16th.

We have rented a car starting Friday and will head out for 8 days, to Raglan, Auckland and then up to Bay of Islands.

I am amazed at how expensive this country is. I knew that it wasn’t cheap from my research before coming over, but it’s at least the same as the States and often even more expensive. There is a lot of government subsidy for the poorer people, but so far I haven’t figured out how people are making it here.

Sunday, December 03, 2006

This weather sure is fickle! One minute the sun is blazing and the next it’s storming, with rain coming sideways!

I didn’t sleep well last night – the locals were having a party in the street below our room, and they had a wonderful, loud time. But I suppose in a town this size, there isn’t a lot to do. Had breakfast in Maria’s café in the Inn, and met a young man from Vancouver who lives here now. He’s been working on a sheep station for a few years, but is permanently settled – his girlfriend is the cook!

At the south end of the bay is a long, long wharf built in the 1920’s and is the longest in the southern hemisphere. It’s in disrepair now, and the town is looking for funds to restore it. We decided to take a walk out to the end, Zoze and Bryan leading the way. The wind was howling (should have taken Graeme’s advice and carried a rock with me) but sunny. About a quarter of the way out, I looked over my shoulder and saw this enormous black cloud racing towards us, so Chris and I turned tailed and raced back to the shelter of the tall pines. Totally oblivious, Zoze and Bryan kept walking, and walking until …wham! It got them and they tried to make their way back. Bryan was very chivalrous trying to block the blast from Zoze but it didn’t help and they got totally soaked! And it was freezing, too. Cranked up the heat and steamed the car up while they dried off.

Our target for the day is Gisborne and apparently it’s not that far. But New Zealand doesn’t believe in straight roads and what we think will take an hour takes double that time. The area is supposed to be a surfing area, and Chris has been anxiously looking for spots but it has been so churned up that the surf looks like hell. But we pulled over at a spot for a pits stop and went for a walk along the beach. This time it was Chris and I who got caught in it – and this time it was hailing! And my legs gave out after trying to run through the ankle deep, soft sand. But I ended up walking back and got totally soaked. Fortunately the public toilets were right there and I got into dry clothes! Jeez, weird weather.

We found a cool campground with rooms available – they were very nice, just redone but the beds were like rock! The town itself is very pretty with a lot of old buildings built in the late 1800’s early 1900’s. The main street is lined with little stores, in fact, there are not a lot of big Box stores anywhere, the little ones can survive. I have only seen ONE Starbucks! But have seen a Wendy’s, MacDonalds and Burger King too. Gisborne is the first town to see the sun each day, and was where Captain Cook made landfall in New Zealand. The harbor is quite small, with a few pleasure boats and quite a lot of fishing boats. There are also a couple of really good murals. Chris and I went to the harbor for the afternoon and had a snack at the local waterfront tavern, again drinking lovely NZ wine.

We all know Kiwis talk funny – and there is some funny terminology. When we first arrived I looked at the coffee menu at the airport that said “flat white.” Well, what could that be? It’s a latte without the foam! And then there are B.L.A.Ts – we have BLT’s and they have BLAT’s – bacon, lettuce, avocado and tomatoes. I’m learning!

Pix at the shutterfly link on the left.

Friday, December 01, 2006


Our place at Maraehako Bay Retreat was spectacular! I just can’t imagine what somewhere like that would cost in the states. It just couldn’t happen! For one thing, I’m pretty sure there were/are no building permits! Looking around it this morning, it’s like a rabbit warren, with rooms and dormitory rooms tucked away in all the corners, and decks and staircases coming out of nowhere. A real treehouse.

This morning was clear and beautiful. The seas have died down somewhat, but there are still big waves crashing onto the bulkhead, shaking the place. We had breakfast on the patio, and met the Maori owner of the land, is name is something like Piki, his son was the one who greeted us yesterday. Very chatty chaps.

I did my first New Zealand driving. What a windy road! Up and down and round and round, slowing down for areas that had been washed out and were under repair. But with it being clear today, we could see the spectacular views – water to the left and hills and valleys to the right. And masses of cattle and sheep. I came around one corner, slammed on brakes to avoid the onslaught of cattle. An enormous herd was being moved down the road so I turned off the motor and we sat for about five minutes while the cows went by us, giving us the eye! Beautiful, glossy beasts on their way to being milked.

Drove down to see Litton Point, there is a motel there, but there was nobody at the office – just a sign that he would be back at 2:30 and that was at 11! He must have gone fishing. That road would have been more comfortable in a 4x4 especially as we kept bottoming out in our little car. Along the way, we found the Manuka Oil factory and store. It comes from a plant that looks like a tea tree, but has a small pinkish white flower and is indigenous to New Zealand. It’s not a pungent but apparently has the same therapeutic effects as tea tree oil. It is a sustainable harvest too, and driving along you see the bush cloaking the hills with it’s pretty little flower. I bought a small soap made from manuka honey that smells wonderful.

Pulled in to Te Araroa that has the largest pohukatawa tree in the world. It is over 350 years old and grows in a school that is named after the tree. The beach across the road from it was spectacular too – the beaches go on forever, these ones are white sand but we’ve seen some that are black or very dark. We had lunch there, sitting on the stone benches. The town itself is almost nothing – a post office, two very small “dairies” or small grocery stores, the police station and a few houses. It is actually amazing that here is this spectacular setting, backed by tall cliffs facing the sea on a beautiful bay, and there are so few people.

Around two we thought we should look for somewhere to stay, so the next town, Te Araroha looked like it might be the spot, but once we got there, it had less to offer than the one before! Again a beautiful beach, but here the bank had even closed down, a lovely 1918 or so building, and all we found was a tavern.

So off we went again thinking we might have to go all the way to Gisborne but found this little town, Tolaga Bay. Right at the entrance to town, is the inn, so pulled in and booked a couple of rooms. The place was build in the 1920’s and is in the process of being restored. So the rooms are funky, very high ceilings and we have a double and two twins in ours and Zoze and Bryan have a double and one single. Bathrooms down the hall. But everything is clean and it looks like lots of hot water for showers.

We had a wonderful dinner at the Pickled Walnut. The young man who served us was a kick, he is a local boy who came back from Auckland to take care of his parents and now works in the restaurant with his Uncle Tommy the chef. Chris and I both had rack of lamb, well, after all we are in New Zealand. It was perfectly cooked, and everything about the veges and stuff was great. Drank the local Tolaga Bay wine and we all dug into desserts afterwards. The walnuts that they use in a lot of the dishes are local, having being brought over years ago by the British settlers. Originally, they would fruit and all the nuts would rot on the ground. Then Uncle Tommy talked to all the tree owners and he harvests and pickles them. He has planted a field of them out back of the restaurant.

Too bad there isn’t a Country Life magazine around that did stories like the Uncle Tommy’s and the Manuka Oil.

This side of the island appears to be much drier – the hills actually look quite brown in places and the rivers are very low. But last night it poured, blowing through in gusts that rattled the roof. It’s windy this morning and I am sitting in the “lounge” writing this in word and will go to the cyber center later and hook up to the internet and post these and the pix.

Pix at the shutterfly link on the left


Thursday, November 30, 2006

Woke up this morning to gray and overcast skies. But it’s not cold, I can still go barefoot!

The car Zoze and Bryan have is quite small, a four-door something or other but we managed to get everything in but decided to walk up the drive so we wouldn’t bottom out. Then headed to the bank where we opened a checking account. Everyone here uses EFTPOS which is the same as using ATM cards. We thought it would be a good idea so we wouldn’t be carrying cash around with us. We had wired funds into Zoze’s account and we went in with two forms of ID and we walked out with ATM cards! Really a good banking system, and it’s secure; well, as secure as any bank can be.

From Tauranga we headed east towards Whakatane – the Wh is pronounced as an F so sound that one out! The little towns along the coast are very small but really nice. So laid back and quiet, no hi-rises or monster hotels. But the area is also very remote. We went out on peninsulas that if only the weather had been good, would have made great photos. As it was, I didn’t take a single shot. By lunchtime we were in Opitiki, more of a Maori town where we found a cute café attached to an old hotel. It reminded me a lot of Shakespeare’s in South Africa. The building was early 1900’s with high ceilings and it was painted in cool colors. Of course I had to have a glass of New Zealand Chardonnay – it was very nice, quite dry and I forgot to get the name so instead of drinking that again, I will have to try another one. We also bought a couple of handmade wooden fish in the Maori store.

Then we came to a really hairy road that hugs the shoreline and goes up and own and round hairpin bends with horrendous drop-offs. Chris was freaking! Zoze was driving and there were places where the road was jus a single lane where it had washed away. No flaggers, just watch carefully and hope no one is coming the other way. But we made it in one piece and pulled into this amazing spot called Maraehako Bay Retreat. I swear if it was warmer we could be in Mexico. It reminds me a lot of the some of the places Susan and I stayed in the Yucatan and Belize, only more refined.

It sits right on the water – and I mean RIGHT on the water. From where I am sitting now on the bed looking out, the waves are breaking not 30 feet from the window. And it is rough seas, huge waves and high winds. This is a Backpackers Hostel which are very popular in NZ. It is fairly rustic, but the rooms are nice and a double costs NZ$63 or $43 US. The place is set into the hillside with rooms on the ground floor, communal bathrooms, a communal kitchen two flights up. The stair rails are made out of driftwood and it is all very funky, but very cool. It’s run by a young Maori whose family owns 2000 acres of surrounding land plus the bay. He and his father live here and run the place.

It’s still fairly early, the distances weren’t as vast as we originally thought so we can kick back and read and drink some wine.

New Zealanders on the whole, at least what we have found in the few days we’ve been here are very friendly, and very chatty. We end up knowing more about strangers we’ve just met than our neighbors we’ve lived next door to for three years.

The roads are great, except for the places that were washed out but in general they are two lanes and lots of roundabouts at intersections that take some getting used to. I will do some driving tomorrow, I’m fine driving on the wrong side of the road, but I wasn’t ready to drive in the big city with all those cars coming from the wrong direction.

Wednesday, November 29, 2006

What a fun day!

This morning was a lot warmer than the last two mornings, almost barefoot in the dewy grass type morning. Chris and Bryan went off to one of the local golf courses and Jenni, Zoze and I went out on a girls morning out.

I am still completely turned around – can’t figure out which way is north, where the roads lead or anything so it’s a good thing Jenni drove. We got a really early start and realized that nothing was open yet – most little cafés etc don’t open til 10 and here we were driving around before nine! But as luck would have it we found a place in Katikati – don’t you love the names? – how about Katikati Kitty Kats, a kennel! We turned into the parking lot – with signs saying “Park on the Grass’ which we did and wandered past an old tractor set amongst the flower beds. Into the little store to find out if the restaurant was open and met Nancy who runs the attached museum. Yes the café (pronounced caff) was open but we must come back for her museum tour.

Breakfast was great – bacon and eggs and toast etc and coffee of course. Then into the museum for an education! The Katikati museum started from stuff an old local guy had collected over many years. When he died, Nancy and Ken took over his sheds of stuff and have developed a wonderful museum! We had a running commentary from Nancy as we went through it – we were the only ones there – and she as an absolute hoot! Not only Maori history and lore but lots and lots of other stuff. Like an old foot powered organ that she sat down at, explaining that this is the type of organ she heard when she went to church with her grandmother. She dons this ancient felt hat and proceeds to play and sing! Oh my! It was hilarious! And her husband Ken took us through the upstairs and showed us a video from old movies about the logging of the old kauri trees. It was all fascinating and the best part was that it was so unexpected. So that will be an International Living postcard.

We tried to go to the lavender farm but it was closed so went on to various craft stores and found this really cool food place – all New Zealand stuff- so will go back there.

Checked out some of the liqueurs – yes taste testing is allowed at 26% alcohol! Only needed a sip!

When we got home Chris and Bryan were resting after their strenuous day of golf, so Zoze and I went to the market to get stuff for our trip that we leave on tomorrow.

We go around the eastern cape of the country and will stay in backpackers that all have double rooms and communal kitchens and are significantly less expensive than motels and hotels. Some of them sound really good and Richard, my nephew has been to one that looks really cool. All the information we have on these places show a lot of them on the beach and very inexpensive, around NZ$50 per night which works out at around $35 or so US. And as Zoze and Bryan are traveling with us on this jaunt, we need to keep things to a mild roar as they are on a very tight budget.

On a different note, I am amazed at how friendly and chatty the local people are. Our waitress this morning told us her life history and was so interested in what we do and where we were going. It’s very refreshing after the US where most people wont even look you in the eye when they talk to you. I was surprised at how much traffic there is. I’m surprised at the racial tensions that apparently exist. I’m surprised that the schools don’t have a lot of discipline, I know this because my nephew Shawn is 12 and having battles with fellow students. His Mum Jenni tells me that the swearing in the schools is terrible. So not much different from the States. Shawn will go to a private school next term.

Get pix at the shutterfly link on the left

Yesterday was fun!

I slept really well the first night and got up early to a brilliant sunny day - but very cold! Now that is a surprise. I knew it might be chilly but yesterday morning it was freezing! But it soon warmed up and had tea sitting in the sun - oh bliss!

Tried to open a bank account so we could get an ATM or EFPOS card but the lady who does that was off sick. So we go back on Thursday. It's an easy thing to do - money, two forms of ID and a contact number.


We decided to take a drive out to Mt Manganui, sort of reminds me of Morro Rock in California except there is a great trail around it as it is easily accessible. People walking, some obviously do that daily. There are a lot fewer fat people here! Looking back at the town, or community it looks sort of 60's but there are some VERY expensive houses there, right on the water. Things are not cheap here.

It was a beautiful walk, went down on the beach which is so clean, and the trail winds around the base of the mountain. The Pohutukawa or New Zealand Christmas trees hanging onto the sides and bending over the trail. These are huge, knarly trees with a fluffy red flower that come out in the summer, hence the name. They are just starting to flower now.

On the other side of the peninsula that the Mt sits on, is the start of miles and miles of white sand beach. It was really windy though, whipping the sand, but Zoze and I went for a little walk while Chris looked at surfboards! He found out about when/where/how big the surf is.

We also checked out golf courses, and Chris and Bryan are playing later on this morning and the girls - Zoze, Jenni and me - are going to a lavender farm.
For more pix click on the shutterfly link on the left




Monday, November 27, 2006

PIX!
Click on the link to shutterfly on the left

It really is a long way here!

Toni was early to the house as the roads were icy so we didn't have to rush. She dropped us at the bus pick-up. Our bus driver considered himself a tour guide so we had a running commentary all the way to SeaTac - 1 3/4 hours of it! Naturally, one of the bags was overweight, but managed to finesse that and got everything checked in and then it was hurry up and wait.

But after an uneventful flight, where we each got a 4-seat row and a few hours sleep, we arrived to a chilly New Zealand morning. We flew in through the dark, landing at around 5 a.m. and eased through Immigration and all the checkpoints. Chris nearly lost his golf shoes and we had to go through biosecurity! So much for golf being a safe sport. the young women took the shoes in the back room, and you could hear her scrubbing away with some sort of disinfectant biohazard cleanser - maybe it wasn't just the residue on the cleats she was scrubbing away.

Because I had booked out Auckland/Rotorua flight separately, we couldn't recheck out bags in the International section so had to walk a ways to the Domestic terminal. (Jenni told us later there is a shuttle, but the walk felt good after 13 hours on the plane.) There is even a sign that tells you how far in minutes! We got all checked in and then waited - of course had forgotten to change any cash at Foreign Exchane but American Express works well so had coffee and tea in the very 60's waiting area. We noticed right away how friendly everyone is, very polite and everything so clean. Chris noticed right away that there are far few fat people!

Our flight to Rotorua was on a Beech 1900, a fairly small turbo prop plane, seats about 16 I think. What a gorgeous country! As far as you could see, the green stretched to the horizon, studded with a few houses, meandering rivers, and lots of lakes - big ones, small ones and many inbetween. The approach to Rotorua Airport got a bit bumpy - just as the pilot said it might, it did and we dropped about 12 feet! Wake up!

But off the plane, walking into the terminal, there were smiling family faces! Zoze and Bryan and Jenni.

Jenni took us on a quick tour of Rotorua and we had a bite at Milly's "Breakfast all Day" - a rather odd little place on the main drag, but quite satisfying, then drove the 60 or so km back to Tauranga. I am amazed at the beauty of the place, the houses on the lakes and the little, laid back towns. Miles and miles of green and I flet like I had been there, trying to figure out where it was that made everything feel familiar. The mix of vegetation - tropical mixed with temperate - sort of reminded me of Belize, very jungley, but then there are foxgloves painting purple down the hills and daisies dotting the verges.

We went to the beach - oh and what a beach - miles of white sand north and south, but the water is quite chilly. No waves to speak of and it was rather windy. But got my first shell, but no pix, my eyes felt so gritty I didn't think I could focus!

Our little caravan in the garden is cool - perfect for us, so dumped our stuff, went to the grocery store while Chris took a nap, and picked up a couple of bottles of New Zealand wine, and some snacky things. My brain was kinda foggy but it seems like things are almost the same price here as in the States. But maybe my calculations were wrong.

Later, we took a drive out to Matamata, again a beautiful area - and no did not take pix! This is Hobbiton, where they filmed all the movies and there are tours etc you can go on. But we will go back there and I will have the camera at fingertip.

So woke up this morning to a very chilly but crystal clear day. Snuck into the house for tea and to read emails - first one that popped up - Just in Time - from Betsy saying the rain continues in Seattle and then one from Susan saying it's snowing in Port Townsend! Whoo hoo! We don't have to deal with that for a while thank goodness!

So tomorrow there will be pix - off to get ready for the this gorgeous day. And oh, to go to the chemist (drug store) I lost (make that left) my wet bag in the Auckland airport ) so have no shampoo, toothpaste or anything. Oh well, good thing I'm with family who has spares of everything.

Saturday, November 25, 2006


And we're off!

Yesterday was hectic! Discovered that one bag was just too old to use, so Chris had to brave the "Black" Friday crowds and go to the mall. He went late in the day so the crowds weren't too bad, and scored a really nice, sturdy bag with a multitude of zips!

I spent some time with Toni, filling her in on all the stuff about the kitties, the house etc. Hooked up her computer.

Did the final paperwork, paid bills and finally last night, checked us in and got our boarding passes.

So this morning, it's water the plants, shower, have something to eat and hit the road.

9 am pickup
10:15 airporter bus
12 at SeaTac
gave ourselves time for holiday travelers and checking
3:35 to San Francisco
5:15 arrive SF
7:25 leave for Auckland
cross the dateline
5:15 am arrive on 27th
8:15 flight to Rotorua
9:00 am arrive Rotorua
10:00 Tauranga - and a nap!

Whew........

Thursday, November 23, 2006


We survived Thanksgiving, in fact everything is on track to just pack up tomorrow and leave first thing Saturday.

Thanksgiving was actually a lot of fun, and of course, way too much food. We could have had another 10 people here and still has leftovers. As it was, Susan loaded everything up and will make care packages for Danelle and Bill. We certainly don't need anything, but I did keep the macadamia coconut tart - mmmm - with whipped cream, delicious! The table turned out great - right in front of the windows and the sun even came out for a couple of minutes - the rest of the time, yes, you're right, it rained!


Hinckley was very sociable, but Buddy kept to himself and hid under the bed. Probably the safest place to stay away from a two-year old!

So tomorrow, pack it up, check the tickets, make sure Toni knows everything she should know and then Saturday, off to the land of the great white cloud.

Wednesday, November 22, 2006

It's finally dawning on me that we leave in 2 1/2 days! The house is a disaster and we have people coming for Thanksgiving tomorrow.
But I think I have it under control.
Made reservations on the airport shuttle from Silverdale. It works out cheaper than having Toni drive us to SeaTac and pick us up. And we don't have to worry about driving in what I think is going to be heavy traffic on Saturday.
Of course, it never fails that we start to get busy. I have an offer on a house that is in counteroffer mode and have to show that same house this evening. And cook. And sort out the house.
Oh well...
It will all be worth it, I will feel that it's for real when I get on the plane. Until then, it's unreal.

Sunday, November 19, 2006

Six days and counting!

But it's just amazing how the list of things to do gets longer - and longer - as we get closer to departure day! I've been so busy the past week, you'd think I'd be packed and waiting at the door by now, but no! Especially with Thanksgiving two days before we leave. It just seems more and more things crop up that have to be taken care of.

We hauled out the bags last night - looks like we should be ok but will have to check them over because one of them had a fix in South Africa that may - or may not - last and if that's the case, we will have to go shopping! And I don't want to add to the list of things to do. We are each allowed two bags each weighing 50 pounds! That's a lot of stuff! Chris is taking his golf clubs, so that takes out one bag but I'm sure we can "make do" with just 150 pounds of clothing. After all, it IS summer down there.

And talking about clothes, I found a place online that has inexpensive camp shirts, all sorts of colors and patterns, and capris too, so I am set. Taking a couple of "good" outfits but mostly casual and as we will, for the most part, be based in Tauranga, we can leave stuff there when we take overnights and short trips.

We will be staying with Jenni, my niece. Zoze and Bryan are there too, so they have hired a caravan (trailer) and parked it in the garden for us! Pretty cool! Tauranga is south east of Auckland, a two-and-a-half hour drive. The town is on the Bay of Plenty and looks absolutely wonderful.

We wired money over there to Zoze and will open a bank account so we will have an ATM card, which apparently is used as much there as here. Cash is going the way of the dodo bird. I think it will be a good idea to rent a cell phone while we are there, so will check that out too. Our phones of course won't work there and Verizon wants to charge hugely per minute.

So despite the push and stress of getting ready, the rewards are going to be great!

Saturday, November 11, 2006

It's two weeks and counting!

I've got two assignments - one for International Living to write a lifestyle and property article. And the other is for Dockside, covering boating and marinas etc around the islands. That's a two-parter, so hopefully can break it into the the logical North Island/South Island. Just hope we have enough time.

I've order and received my clothes but now we have to sort out which bags to take. Chris is taking golf clubs as he and Bryan will play the many courses and he wants to learn to fly-fish. So he will be off doing that and I can go exploring other stuff.

We have a housesitter organized who will take care of the kitties. Her name is Toni and she comes every two weeks to clean the house so she knows the kitties so it will be fine.

Getting the bills paid and organized, and all the other things one has to do before going on a fairly long trip. And I still have articles to do for Dockside and the Leader. So the next two weeks will be busy.

But what a reward at the end!

Friday, November 10, 2006

Last year I was supposed to go to Nicaragua but got sick.

So this year, it's New Zealand. A little milder, not so adventurous, but getting out there. I will be posting regularly, not necessarily every day, but a lot! And will have masses of photos which will go up on shutterfly with a link from here.

So this is all preparation, stay tuned.